How to Make Beeswax Candles
Tips and Tricks for Perfect Candles
Okay, I’ll admit it – I’m a little obsessed with making beeswax candles! It all started with my pottery class. I was churning out these cute but less-than-perfect little pots and didn’t know what to do with them. Then, inspiration struck: candles! Now, several times a year, I melt down a batch of beeswax and turn those pots into fragrant, glowing treasures. And don’t worry if you are not learning to be a potter like I am; you can use recycled containers, old jars, or any small vessel that can take heat.
But my candle-making journey hasn’t been without its bumps. I’ve made my fair share of mistakes (sinkholes, cracks, you name it!). So, I’m here to share my hard-earned wisdom and help you create beautiful, natural candles that burn evenly and smell divine. Trust me, these make wonderful gifts for almost anyone – and they’re a treat to keep for yourself, too!

Why Beeswax?
Before we dive in, let’s talk about why beeswax is so special. Unlike paraffin wax, beeswax is a natural product that burns clean and releases a lovely, subtle honey scent. It’s also a healthier choice, especially for those with sensitivities.
Ingredients & Materials
- 1 lb (16 oz) beeswax pellets or blocks (natural, filtered)
- 1–2 tbsp coconut oil (optional, improves burn consistency)
- Essential oils (e.g., lavender, eucalyptus, cedarwood) – 15–20 drops per candle
- Cotton wicks (I like pre-waxed, pre-tabbed, and the correct size for your container diameter)
- Wick stickers or hot glue (to secure wicks)
- Candle containers (glass jars, ceramic pots, or tins)
- Wooden skewers or wick holders (to keep wicks centered)
- Double boiler or makeshift boiler (metal or glass measuring cup in a saucepan)
- Thermometer (candy or candle thermometer)
Instructions
- Wash and dry your containers thoroughly.
Secure the wick in the center of each container using wick stickers or a dab of hot glue.
Use a skewer or wick holder to keep the wick upright and centered. - Melt the Beeswax
Fill the bottom of your double boiler with water and bring it to a simmer.
Add the beeswax to the top of the double boiler. Stir gently and occasionally as it melts.
Once fully melted (about 145–150°F or 63–65°C), add 1–2 tbsp of coconut oil. This reduces cracking and prevents tunneling by softening the wax slightly. - Add Scent (Optional)
Remove the melted wax from heat and let it cool slightly (to about 130–135°F or 54–57°C) before adding essential oils.
Add 15–20 drops of essential oil per candle and stir gently to combine. - Pour the Wax
Slowly pour the melted wax into the prepared containers. Pouring too quickly may create air pockets. Leave about ½ inch of space at the top.
Lightly tap the container on the table to release any trapped air bubbles. - Cool the Candles Slowly
Allow the candles to cool at room temperature, away from drafts or cold surfaces, to prevent cracks and holes.
Do not move the candles until they are fully solidified (about 12–24 hours). - Trim the Wick
Once the wax is fully set, trim the wick to about ¼ inch (6 mm). This prevents high flames and uneven burning.
Tips for Even Burning
- Wick Size Matters: Use the right wick size for your container diameter:
2–3 inches: Small wick (size #2 or #3)
3–4 inches: Medium wick (#4 or #5)
4+ inches: Large wick (#6 or #7) - First Burn Memory: Let the first burn last until the wax melts evenly across the surface to set the “memory” and avoid tunneling later.
- Avoid Drafts: Keep candles away from fans, vents, and windows during burning.
Why This Temperature Works
- Too Hot (above 150°F/65°C): Causes rapid cooling and contraction, leading to cracks, sinkholes, or uneven surfaces.
- Too Cold (below 130°F/54°C): May not adhere properly to the container, causing air bubbles or uneven surfaces.
Additional Tips to Prevent Holes
- Preheat Containers: Warm your jars or containers slightly (around 100–120°F) before pouring to prevent rapid cooling. This can be done with a hairdryer or by placing containers in a warm oven (200°F for 5 minutes).
- Pour Slowly and Steadily: Avoid splashing to reduce air pockets.
- Top Off if Needed: If a small dip forms after cooling, reheat the leftover wax and pour a thin second layer to smooth the top.
- Cool Gradually: Place candles in a draft-free room and avoid temperature fluctuations for even cooling.
- This process minimizes holes and helps achieve a smooth, polished surface.
BONUS! To make your candle-making journey even easier, I’ve included a printable recipe sheet and some cute round gift tags that you can download and use. Just print them out, attach them to your finished candles, and voilà – you have a personalized, handcrafted gift that anyone would love!
Enjoy your beautiful, handcrafted beeswax candles!

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4 Comments
I collect all left over candles – bees wax from Advent+Christmas, white and coloured stearin candles – to melt them in a tin and produce new candles. Heat resistance containers as you mentioned above: glass, pottery, old mokka cups, big seashells etc. The wick (?) has to be dipped into the fluid wax, it burns better than a not dipped cotton one. Before the wax is too cold, add a few drops of your favourite essential oil (lavender, orange, cinnamon, vanillia – whatever you prefer)
Yes! The wicks are important. I tried wood wicks because I thought they were pretty, but did not have luck burning them.
One can buy waxed cotton ones and natural cotton fiber ones, which are not waxed. I prefer the waxed ones (same price or only a few cents more), because in the past I forgot sometimes to dip them and then let them dry. It is the wax of the wick, which lets a candle burn, the wick itself sucks only the candle wax up to the wick. Means, a wood wick can’t work
Totally agree! I prefer the pre-waxed wicks too. I will update the post to say that. Great tip!